The organizing committee: Rosita D’Amora, Tineke Rooijakkers, Bas ter Haar Romeny, Mat Immerzeel, Judith Kindinger, and Alexandra Pleşa

Programme :

9.00 ‐ 10.30 : Registration and opening
10.30 ‐ 10.45 : Coffee break

10.45 ‐ 11.25 : Guest Speaker: Annelies Moors (Universiteit van Amsterdam) – Standing Out, Fitting In: Muslim Dress and the Politics of Belonging

11.25 ‐ 12.40 Session 1: The veil?
Chair: Annelies Moors

11.25 ‐ 11.50 Younes Saramifar (Vrije Universiteit Amsterdam) – Politics of Scarf or Hundred Ways for Not Wearing the Scarf
11.50 ‐ 12.15 Lora Sarıaslan (Universiteit van Amsterdam) – The Quest(ion) of Veil
12.15 ‐ 12.40 Tal Shenav (The Harry S. Truman Research Institute for the Advancement of Peace, The Hebrew University) – Dress Code and Modern Muslim Role Model – A Case Study of the Animated Television Series ‘Stories of Women in the Quran’
12.40 ‐ 13.40 Lunch break

13.40 ‐ 14.20 Guest Speaker: Reina Lewis (London College of Fashion, University of the Arts London) – Marketing Modest Fashion in Turkey: Politics, Identity, Ethnicity, Nation

14.20 ‐ 15.25 Session 2: Veiling communities
Chair: Reina Lewis

14.20 ‐ 14.45 Ruxandra Todosi (Nottingham Trent University) – Depth of Surface in Glamour and in Modesty: Art(ifice), Communication and Introspection through Veils Today
14.45 ‐ 15.10 R. Arzu Ünal (Fatih Üniversitesi) – The Çarşaf: From a National Outfit to a Community Garment
15.10 ‐ 15.35 Alice Leri (University of South Carolina) – Global Trends and Local Meanings: Highlighting Power Dynamics in the Marketplace
15.35 ‐ 15.50 Coffee break

15.50 ‐ 16.30 Guest Speaker: Kristi Upson‐Saia (Occidental College) – (Re)theorizing Modesty: Gender, Religion, and Dress

16.30 ‐ 17.45 Session 3: Women and modesty in early Christianity and Islam
Chair: Kristi Upson‐Saia

16.30 ‐ 16.55 Kate Cooper (University of Manchester) – Transvestite Saints, Modesty, and Ancient Violence Against Women
16.55 ‐ 17.20 Judith Kindinger (FISO, Vrije Universiteit Amsterdam) – Dressing down the Dressed up: The Phenomenon of Long and Wide Sleeves in the Socio‐Political Context of Mamluk Egypt

Friday 25 March 2016

9.30 ‐ 10.30 Clue+ keynote: Suraiya Faroqhi (İstanbul Bilgi Üniversitesi) – Ottoman Clothes in Their Chests: Recent Research on Ottoman Garments
10.30 ‐ 10.45 Coffee break

10.45 ‐ 12.50 Session 4a: Male sartorial politics
Chair: Suraiya Faroqhi

10.45 ‐ 11.10 Avner Wishnitzer (Tel Aviv University) – Mustached, Young Turks: a History of Facial Hair in the Late Ottoman Empire
11.10 ‐ 11.35 Sivan Balslev (Van Leer Institute, Jerusalem) – Fake Collars and Fake Westernizers: Dress, Masculinity, and Social Distinction in Early 20th century Iran
11.35 ‐ 12.00 Gülsen Kaya Osmanbaşoğlu (Social Sciences University of Ankara) – The Irony of Clothing Political Leadership in Turkey: Ecevit and Demirel
12.00 ‐ 12.25 Shoshana‐Rose Marzel (University of Haifa) – The Seventies Turning Point in Israeli Masculine Fashion
12.25 ‐ 12.50 Kobi Peled (Ben‐Gurion University) – The Poetics and Politics of Bedouin Dress Among the First Zionist Watchmen and Shepherds

10.45 ‐ 13.15 Session 4b: Depicting status in Byzantine times
Chair: Henry Maguire

10.45 ‐ 11.10 Mat Immerzeel (Leiden University) – Who Do We Think They Are? Donor Portraits in the Medieval Middle East
11.10 ‐ 11.35 Cristina Stancioiu (College of William and Mary, Williamsburg) – Sartorial Choices in Eastern Mediterranean Portraiture: 13th‐15th Centuries
11.35 ‐ 12.00 Eleni Barmparitsa (Hellenic Ministry of Culture) – Dressing Codes in the Late Medieval Peloponnese, Greece: 13th‐ 15th Century
12.00 ‐ 12.25 Sophia Germanidou (Hellenic Ministry of Culture) – The Attire of Peasantry in Byzantine Iconography
12.25 ‐ 12.50 Andrea Torno Ginnasi (Università degli Studi di Milano) – Clothes Do Make the Emperor: The Byzantine toupha from Exotic Helmet Ornament to Triumphal Imperial Crown
12.50 ‐ 14.00 Lunch break

14.00 ‐ 15.55 Session 5a: Powerful hats
Chair: Katja Jana

14.00 ‐ 14.40 Guest Speaker: Katja Jana (University of Göttingen) – Loyal and Elegant Subjects of the Sublime State: Headgear and the Multiple Dimensions of Modernizing/‐ed Ottoman Identity
14.40 ‐ 15.05 Philipp Wirtz (SOAS, University of London and University of Warwick) – Between Turban and Tarbush: Remembering Cultures of Clothing in the Autobiography of Aḥmad Amīn
15.05 ‐ 15.30 : Anais Massot (Universiteit Leiden and Ecole des Hautes Etudes en Sciences Sociales) – Clerical Clothing and the Politics of Recognition during the Ottoman Tanzimat Period: the ‘Affair of the Hat’ as a Case Study
15.30 ‐ 15.55 Esther Voswinckel Filiz (Centrum für Relionsforschung (CERES) Bochum) – Sufi Turbans (Taç‐ı Şerif) in Istanbul – the Textile and Textual Production of Ritual Headgears at Saintly Gravesites

14.00 ‐ 16.05 Session 5b: Self‐presentation in the ancient Eastern Mediterranean
Chair: Mat Immerzeel

14.00 ‐ 14.25 Serdar Yalçın (Parsons School of Design, New York) – Image vs. Reality: Babylonian Professionals, their Seals and the Issue of Representation in Ancient Mesopotamia.
14.25 ‐ 14.50 Jessica L. Nitschke (Stellenbosch University) – Identity, Status, and the Meaning of Foreign Styles of Dress in Phoenician Self‐Representation
14.50 ‐ 15.15 Melanie Wasmuth (Universität Basel and Allard Pierson Museum Amsterdam) – Dressing Darius I: Visual Strategies of Incorporating Mutually Incompatible Kingship Concepts
15.15 ‐ 15.40 Betty Rame (University of Paris I Panthéon‐Sorbonne) – Mycenaean Headband: An Identity Sign?
15.40 ‐ 16.05 Maria Papadopoulou (University of Copenhagen) – Alexander the Great’s Cloak and the Politics of Dress in Hellenistic Egypt
16.05 ‐ 16.20 Coffee break

16.20 ‐ 17.20 Keynote: Henry Maguire (Johns Hopkins University) – The Politics of Imperial Dress in Medieval Art, East and West
19.00 Conference Dinner

Saturday, 26 March 2015

9.00 ‐ 9.40 Guest speaker: Giovanni Ricci (University of Ferrara) – Ambiguous Dress: Four Stories from the Medieval and Early Modern Mediterranean World

9.40 ‐ 10.55 Session 6: Negotiating sartorial identities
Chair: Giovanni Ricci

9.40 ‐ 10.05 Andrew Robarts (Rhode Island School of Design) – Negotiating Boundaries in the Early‐Modern Eastern Mediterranean: Dress, Visual Culture, and Identity in Istanbul and Venice
10.05 ‐ 10.30 Marloes Cornelissen (Sabancı Üniversitesi) – Fashion and Identity Among the Dutch in Early Modern Ottoman Istanbul
10.30 ‐ 10.55 Sümeyye Hoşgör Büke (METU, Ankara) – Making Difference Through Dresses in the Early Modern Ottoman Empire: The Case of Galata
10.55 ‐ 11.15 Coffee break

11.15 ‐ 12.30 Session 7: The image of the Other and the politics of representation
Chair: Rosita D’Amora

11.15 ‐ 11.40 Gwendolyn Collaço (Harvard University) – Documenting Dress in Diplomacy and Poetry: Costume Albums as a Transcultural Genre
11.40 ‐ 12.05 Ilse Sturkenboom (University of Vienna) – Muslims Dressing up Christians: The Image of the Christian in Medieval Persian Manuscripts
12.05 ‐ 12.30 Robyn Radway (Princeton University) – Muddling East and West: Costume and Identity in the Ottoman Habsburg Borderlands
12.30 ‐ 13.30 Lunch break

13.30 ‐ 14.20 Session 8: Communities between East and West
Chair: Petra de Bruijn (Leiden University)

13.30 ‐ 13.55 Alexander A. Novik (St. Petersburg State University) – Traditional Costume, Ethnic affiliation and Common Memory of Slavic (Macedonian) Muslims in Albania: Adaptating and Preserving the Identity
13.55 ‐ 14.20 Nicola Verderame (Berlin Graduate School Muslim Cultures and Societies)– Costumes in World Fairs and Orientalisms: The Case of Chicago, 1893
14.20 ‐ 14.45 Coffee break

14.45 ‐ 15.25 Guest speaker: Tamer el‐Leithy (Johns Hopkins University) – Shibboleths under Hats: Dress, Material Culture, and Medieval Arabic Documents

15.25 ‐ 16.40 Session 9: Dressed to impress in the early Medieval Eastern Mediterranean
Chair: Tamer el‐Leithy

15.25 – 15.50 Susanne Enderwitz (Ruprecht‐Karls‐Universität Heidelberg) – Ẓarf: A Dress‐Code in Medieval Baghdad
15.50 ‐ 16.15 Alexandra Plesa (FISO, Vrije Universiteit Amsterdam) – Regional Fashion? Dress at Matmar and Mostagedda (Middle Egypt) in the Late Antique and Early Islamic Periods
16.15 – 16.40 Hasan Al‐Khoee (SOAS, University of London) – To Wear Black Robes or White? Colour, Clothing and the Fatimid‐Abbasid Rivalry (10th and 11th Centuries)
16.40 – 17.00 Closing remarks